These Pix were taken during various stages of Construction and Development. Things are basically the way they appear in these pix, but various changes and/or Improvements have been made. I try to make note of as many as I can recall in the text. Once I am a bit further down the road with this Overall setup--I will update this page and these Pix. Page Last Updated 4-18-07.

Currently, this is Not setup for Beauty. Its setup for Functionality! I am more concerned with pinning down the various husbandry parameters and overall care combined with my own convenience--then Beauty. Once those things are accomplished--I have Great Plans on the Beauty part....

Above You can see the part of the DIY PVC 1" Overflow, 1 of the 2 Coralife Digital Thermometers and 1 of the Coralife 18w 6,700K Mini- Aqualights.

I added small "Blocks" of wood between the wood frame and the Glass to raise the Glass up about 1/4" for Greater air exchange above the water--Without allowing for Escape.

Above shows the other half with the 2 Via Aqua Stainless Steel 200w Heater Controllers (top right). I don't really Trust them--Aquarium Heaters are known for Failing (sometimes "Full-On"), so I have 3 500w Otto Heater Controllers for a Failsafe Heater Backup. But so far, the Via Aquas have worked Great! Note: The 2 Via Aquas have been moved into the Sump and a 300w Hydor ETH Inline Heater has been added to the xP3 Return line.

I added these dual openings, so that I could run a Diatom Filter and just walk away. With these I can just get the Vortex filter running and come back several hours later without worry of escape! However, I currently use these with a 350 Magnum Canister Filter w/ the Micron Cartridge. The Vortex removes particles as small as 1 micron--so it will remove the Tannins and Humic Acids. The Micro Cartridge of the 350 only removes 4 micron particles, so its compatible with the Black Water.

This is the Current Aquatic Plant Filter. A simple 29g aquarium.

It currently contains: Alternanthera reineckii, Bacopa caroliniana, Limnophila aromatica, Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'Cuba', Ludwigia sp. 'Guinea',  Ludwigia glandulosa, Hygrophila polysperma, Hydrophila polysperma  "Sunset",  Lobelia cardinalis 'Small Form', Eleocharis parvula  and   Rotala macrandra 'Red'

I added this Emersed Plant Filter to the system on 4-10-07.

The Emersed Plant Filter setup above the Adult Acrochordus javanicus' tank. This also gave me the opportunity to mount the pH controller vertically, so it can be read from across the room. Above the pH Controller is a Dual TDS Meter--push a Button--instant TDS Readout!

Above is the 40g Sump with the Top on. The Return Pump manifold has been shortened to fit inside the Sump so its not visible when the top is on. Visible also is the 18w Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer set to flow at 76gph for parasites, bacteria and algae.

This is the Sump with the Top Off. I re-enforced it with wood so it would work. Its basically just a big body of water that helps stabilize the overall system. It currently houses the 2 200w Via Aqua Stainless Steel heaters, both return pumps, the Automatic Water Change Drain pump, a couple C02 Reactors, a DIY Dual Hydor #5 sponge filter/powerhead, and the UV Sterilizer. The 2 1/2" valves currently run a Denitrator (NRS) and an Internal C02 Reactor (there is another one in the sump and Plant Filter).

This is the Nitrate Removal System (NRS) as it was Originally Hooked up. It has since been painted, had a Flow-Control Valve added and placed up under the stand directly below the Tank. The xP2 under the stand has been upgraded to an xP3.

These are the Original Specs for the NRS. The reason it was on the Floor in the last Pic--is because I simply wasn't paying close enough attention! At the specs in the pic--It would not fit under the Stand! So, I ended up having to cut both 2" tubes, shorten them and use couplings to put it back together. It currently holds about 3L of Seachem's De*Nitrate and is a wee-bit shorter than the Pix.

The Current Electrical setup is shown in this and the next 2 pix. It includes a "Master" On/Off Switch, multiple outlets and, Currently, a Dimmer Switch.

This is the Pressurized C02 System used to supply C02 for the Plants in the Plant Filter and to maintain the pH 6.0. 20Lbs C02 Tank and Azoo Regulator w/ Solenoid

This is My Clippard Multi-Output Manifold w/ Clippard Needle valves, check valves, tubing, etc. I am currently only using 2 of the Outputs, but the 3rd is in place for when I get around to it. Below are the DIY Bubble Counters used to set the C02 Flow.

This is the American Marine Pinpoint Controller that I use to regulate the pH and keep it between 6.0-6.1.  I purchased an Omega PHE-4202 pH probe to go with it, and this thing is Rock Solid.

Above is my 1 gal Pure Oxygen (02) Generator. I use Lead as a Catalyst to split 3% Hydrogen Peroxide (H202) into Water (H20) and Oxygen (02). It is plumbed into my C02/02 Generators for dissolution. I have eliminated the need for an Air Pump and Greatly reduced surface turbulation. The Feeder fish do just fine with this system.

Above is a picture of my current Reverse Osmosis w/ Triple Deionization Setup. The horizontal DI setups are really a waste. DI Resin shrinks as it is exhausted--causing the water to eventually flow above and past it without having any benefit. So, I added the Dual DI cartridges. This setup has a Kent Marine Float Valve in the sump. A Quiet One 1200 pump (296gph) on a timer starts the system drain. It runs for 6 minutes/day pumping out ~15 gal. the reduced water level in the sump lowers the float valve which starts adding pure RODI water. When the water level is "Full" the Float valve closes and the Auto Water change is complete.

This is my Automatic-Dosing System. The Brown jug doses Micros and Black Water Expert, the Green jug doses Macros (N, P, K). This is also set on a timer and doses 1 hour before the lights come on for the APF (-the lights for various tanks are staggered). The peristaltic pumps are in the top left and the orange capped jugs hold the ferts. Also, visible is the xP3 and part of the NRS above it.

Again, some of the pix above are somewhat out-dated. However, between the pix and the text--the overall setup should be reasonably clear. I will update this page in the future.

Is all of this stuff really necessary? I doubt it. Some of it is just setup for my convenience, like the AWC, Air-Doser, etc. I could do these things Manually--But Why? The Auto-Doser System costs ~$150 to put together and the AWC added ~$50. For that kind of money--What's the point in beating myself up doing these things Manually? Additionally, Right now, I am trying to pin down the Requirements for Acrochordus javanicus Husbandry. The more control, data and convenience that I have--the easier that task will be. I have finally reached the 1yr mark. Now I can begin various controlled experiments in order to actually pin down What's Required, What's Optional and What's Preferred. First Experiment--the switch back to this hard tap water.

Asbestos Cancer Counter

Website  Copyright 2005-2007